Whilst on the road I’m constantly amazed at how few backpackers carry a first aid kit. Maybe it’s simply overlooked, maybe it’s not deemed necessary and sacrificed during the quest to attain a lighter backpack, or maybe it’s dismissed on a cost basis alone. I don’t know the exact reason, but what I do know is that a first aid kit can be worth its weight in gold – at worst it can provide piece of mind and at best could even avert a trip ruining calamity.

What follows below is a quick guide to knocking up your own tailor made DIY backpacking first aid kit –
it’s small, light, cheap and, most importantly, for its size it’s bloody effective.

Of course, it is just that: a baseline first aid kit, not an operating theatre. You could add more to it to cover more eventualities, but where do you draw the line? Anyway, here’s the lowdown on the cheap first aid kit for backpackers:

FIRST AID KIT CONTENTS:

2 x 10cm squared sealed sheets of padded, sterile gauze – Can be cut to size and used for cuts and scrapes too big for plasters. Nb. To avoid unwanted contamination of unused piece simply seal them back up in a small Ziploc bag.

A small roll of hideously sticky, 3-4cm wide fabric medical tape – Can be used with the gauze to make larger plasters, or to secure a larger field dressing made from a T-shirt or such like. If medical tape costs a few cents too many, good ol’ duct tape is another option – but remember it isn’t quite as sticky and loses its tack on material much quicker.

A couple of 10cmx20cm ‘cut-your-own’ style strips of plasters – These save the need for a large assortment of different size plasters.

One strip each of Tylenol, Paracetamol, and Ibuprofen – Among other things Tylenol can reduce fever and stop you feeling so shitty, and the others are great for hangovers!

Small tube of hydrocortisone cream – Essential for bites and stings.

Small tube of antiseptic cream – Ideal pre-treatment of cuts and scrapes

Antiseptic wipes - virtually no weight at all and another ideal pre-treatment. Failing that, clean bottled water can be used also.

Safety pins – Superb for hooking out splinters (remember: if need be, before you go digging about in your body with one it can always be sterilised over a flame/in boiling water first). Can also be used to fasten makeshift slings/bandages, or just to blend in on any foreign punk scene!

A sealed and sterile drip needle, syringe, and a couple of extra needles – If things are bad enough to need these you will probably already have medical attention, but at least you won’t have to worry about the hygiene of existing supplies if in a developing country. These items should be kept together with a certificate stating the issuing doc’s name and contact details in case of border/airport searches. My doc was kind enough to give me these, along with the covering letter; it may be worth asking yours for the same.

Set of non-latex barrier gloves – They weigh virtually nothing and may make you more inclined to help others in difficulty, or indeed others to help you. Also, if travel buddies tire of your shadow puppets and ghost stories, then these gloves open the doors to a whole new world of low cost entertainment!

Tiger balm – A little beauty most worthy of inclusion. Not only is it a great way to soothe those muscle strains gained from canopy swings and waterfall jumps, but during evening time it’s also perfect when smeared on your feet and ankles to deter them darn mozzies!

Notes:

(i) Assuming you already carry a penknife, I have excluded scissors from the list.

(ii) If you want to go really cheap on this, it can’t harm to explain your travel plans to the doctor/ hospital staff as they may even be willing to contribute some of the contents free of charge. It never hurts to ask – what’s the worst they can say?

(iii) As mentioned already, you could add to this baseline budget first aid kit until the cows come home – but these cheap and rudimentary first aid items should suffice to cover everyday mishaps such as cuts, bites, bumps, strains and stings…and hangovers.

(iv) Remember to improvise – just because something isn’t in the first aid kit it doesn’t mean that you can’t deal with the problem. Eyewash=bottled water, tubular bandage=sock with end cut off, splint=stick, tourniquet=belt, sling=sarong/towel, bandage=sarong/t-shirt, field dressing=sarong/clothing, sarong=erm…towel/blanket.

FIRST AID KIT CONTAINER

Ok, now that you have the contents of your first aid kit you’re going to need something to put them in. We need cheap, waterproof, durable and light. We need Tuppaware! You know the drill here: Wal-Mart, Tescos or wherever. But what box? With so many on offer here are some pointers to help you make the right choice: -

Pick a box only just big enough to house all your first aid kit contents – if it’s too big, not only will your stuff rattle around in it (possibly damaging it/breaking seals etc) but over time you may be also tempted to stash other stuff in there too, and before you know it you will be in need of a plaster but first have to fish through Guatemalan embroidered hankies, Thai wristbands and all sorts of other sh*t before you can go about the serious business of stopping the leak.

Pick a clear box – Then you can immediately see where everything is in the box before you have even opened it and other folks – such as border guards or airport officials – can too. It may mean the difference between a cursory glance and you having to fish everything out (and risk exposing the contents to potential contamination) during a search.

Pick a box that well suited to the size and shape of your particular rucksack/daysack and also your particular needs – it’s all about space saving as well as weight reduction. Personally, I would go for a shallow and wide box for both easy access of the contents and ease of stowing.

SUMMARY

Taking the above into account you should easily end up with an effective first aid kit that takes up less space than a couple of packs of cigarettes and costs well under 10 bucks (You could even do it for free!) So, before buying a ridiculously overpriced commercial traveller’s first aid kit from a firm cashing in on that big trip anxiety, why don’t you give it a go yourself?

Remember though, it’s dinky small for a reason: so you can transfer it from your rucksack to your daypack when your out and about. Its no use having a kick-ass first aid kit if you have a scrape whilst out doing adventurous things and the kick-ass first aid kit is back in the hostel sitting on your bed!

Whilst on the subject of First Aid its worth mentioning the one thing you can take on your travels that takes up no space and weighs nothing. Knowledge. Although I hope that you won’t, it’s entirely that possible you may encounter more hazardous situations on the road than you did at home. So why not consider taking a day or two out and enrolling on a first aid course to learn some basic skills? After all, you could be the one that makes a big difference.

Size IS Important

Before choosing a rucksak, have an idea of what’s going to go in it. Visualise the contents, understand your needs, and shortlist a range of rucksacks accordingly. The shortlist should contain rucksacks big enough for the largest loads you will carry, but no bigger – as the larger the backpack, the more you may be inclined to fill it. But don’t go too small either, as an overloaded rucksack may feel uncomfortable and unstable, and may force you to have to secure extra gear on the outside thus increasing the risk of loss or damage.

The choices on offer can be put into the following categories:-

Daypacks (15 – 35L) - Small backpacks with minimal or no internal frame to support loads, so all weight is transferred through shoulder straps. Perfect for day trips and shorter outings.
Alpine Packs (35 – 55L) and Backpacking Packs (55 – 75L) – This will be the area to concentrate in for a backpacking or RTW trip. If possible, the smaller alpine pack. Both offer many of the comprehensive features of larger rucksacks whilst keeping physical weight and size to a minimum.
Expedition Rucksacks (75 – 100L) – These packs are huge. Possibly necessary for trips involving many climate changes for those wishing to carry all their gear from the word go, or for those wishing to practice for SAS Selection! If you fill one of these remember that you may and up carrying mucho, mucho Kilos…
Travel Packs – Essentially, these are like soft suitcases with shoulders straps that can be covered (to avoid snagging when not being carried). They are most certainly an option to consider, as these front opening packs make it easier to access your gear compared to conventional top-loading rucksacks. They may also engender a greater air of respectability if checking in to hotels or at border crossings. The downside is that they are generally a little more expensive and also bulkier than their rucksack equivalent.

Fitting

Choosing a rucksack that is a good fit is of paramount importance. If possible, try each rucksack with some weight in. It may feel quite different. Fill the backpack with the approximate weight that you will be carrying, and distributing it as best you can. After you have achieved a good fit be sure to test drive the backpack a little. Lean forward, backward, and also sway from side to side. The rucksack should remain snug, and not swing wildly or throw you off balance.
Walk around with it – even up and down some stairs if possible. Concentrate on ensuring yourself that the weight is being distributed evenly. Be aware of any minor niggles, as these will become painfully apparent after several hours on your feet with a heavy backpack on a hot day.

What to Look For

Shoulder Straps – Focus on rucksacks with wide, well padded (yet firm), shoulder straps. Ensure that the straps keep the rucksack central and well balanced, that they don’t slip (a good, solid chest strap should help with this), and that they keep the rucksack snug yet don’t chaff or restrict arm and upper body movement.

Hip Belt – Often overlooked, a good Hip Belt is essential. It should be strong enough to bear the main pack weight as it will, when used properly, transfer the weight from your back to your hips, thus considerably increasing comfort and reducing back strain when wearing the backpack for prolonged periods of time. Ensure that the band is semi rigid, and that it has soft, broad padding so to avoid creating pressure points that will all too quickly become very painful. On larger rucksacks, the hip belt is the main load-bearing component, so remember to use it – it makes a world of difference.

Other Straps – Side compression straps come highly recommended. After the rucksack is packed, these can be pulled tight to further reduce the size of your pack. It may make the difference between being able to have it as carry on luggage for flights, fitting it overhead luggage compartments on busses, and actually being parted with it on other such journeys. They also serve to increase pack stability by holding the load closer to your back.

Pay attention to the types of adjustments on these straps, too. Can they be adjusted whilst wearing the rucksack? Are they difficult to adjust? Inversely, do they adjust too easily and will therefore change when I don’t want them too?

Also look out for other types of adjustments. Although they may seem surplus to requirements at the moment, they will enable the wearer to further fine tune how the pack sits and feels at a later stage.

Pockets – Ensure there are enough pockets on the rucksack for all your needs. Lid pockets are especially useful for carrying items that need to be accessible in a hurry – such as guidebooks, for instance. Mesh pockets (usually located either side near the bottom of the backpack) are great for holding wet gear should you be fresh out of those handy plastic bags. Outer side pockets are also exceptionally handy for storing items that you want quick access to whilst travelling – or when your rucksack is half buried in other luggage – and are large enough to accommodate substantial items such as water bottles and tasty road-nibbles. In general, pockets allow for a better separation of your gear. If you like a modicum of organisation, including somewhere separate to put your skanky pants, you can never have too many pockets.

Compartments – If you opt for a top loading backpack then it’s advisable to choose one with at least two, separately accessible, compartments – thus providing access from both the top and the bottom of the backpack. This arrangement is ideal if packing/unpacking is a regular occurrence, as you can put your most used items in one compartment, and makes for a good compromise if you were also considering the purchase of a Travel Pack. You may also find that internal diaphragms separating the two can be unzipped to accommodate larger items if need be.

Top Flap – If opting for a top loading pack then look for a top flap that will extend if need be. It’s a must-have for those temporary overloads and can always be used to stuff extra little bits under when your rucksack is already packed and secured.

Back Pads and Stays – These days, rucksacks generally come with a padded back piece as standard, although better quality versions will also have ventilation features built in. Ergonomic, raised ribs of foam will allow better airflow between the carrier and the rucksack. This airflow means greater comfort, less sweat, and a smaller laundry pile after a few days of overland travel.

Lightweight, aluminium stays fitted in the rucksack (sometimes removable) maintain backpack shape and ensure good weight transfer between the shoulders and the Hip belt. Some versions are smaller, and therefore less intrusive, than others and will come pre-curved thus providing greater comfort.

Durability – Take a closer look. Check for durable, waterproof/water resistant fabrics and tightly stitched seams. Pay particular attention to where straps fix to the main body. Pull the seams apart, and be wary if stitching becomes clearly visible. Ideally, internal seams should be covered by fabric as it will make them less prone to wear. The base should be constructed from an incredibly durable material – or at least the same material as the body of the pack but double lined or double thickness – as that’s the part of the pack which will be most prone to being scuffed and torn.

Ensure that all zippers and catches look up to the job. Try them all several times to get a feel for their durability and functionality. Are the zipper handles too small? Can I fit a padlock through them? Are there double zippers that meet in the middle in case one breaks? These are all things to consider.

The benefits of hitting the road with the right backpack cannot be underestimated. Sure, you can travel with almost any bag – I used to borrow backpacks, in fact. But a comfortable, well-fitting rucksack will not only be physically beneficial, but will make life a little easier in the long run.

Now, 2 of the first items thrown in the Kinabalu pile would usually be a Leatherman tool and a Swiss army knife – and my first question would always be the same: which one do I take? I realise now the question should really have been: do I actually need to take either? And the answer – if you’re simply doing the general backpackery things that backpackers do – is a hard and fast no.

For years I would take one of these money wasters yet use nothing on it apart from the knife. For years, I tell you. But there could well be a situation where you need one of the other items, surely? No. But you will be doing things a little out of the ordinary and it could be useful. Won’t you regret not taking it then? NO!

I’m sure that these 2 questions alone have made the bosses at Swiss Army HQ very rich men indeed.

OK, I could be wrong, but consider this: a few years back even I worked for a while as an electrician in a Cambodian hotel and still didn’t use the bloody Swiss army knife! I’m serious! And if there was ever I time that I thought I would need one it would have been then. But I didn’t.

The fact of the matter is that there always seems to be something else to hand that will do the job – some other solution – or another way of solving whatever problem you thought you needed the combination tool for in the first place.

Each to their own, but I reckon you’d be better off saving the extra space and weight taken up by the combination of nail files, tweezers, bottle openers, corkscrews, screwdrivers, hooks, saws, magnifying glasses, fish scalers (?!?),hex wrenches, pliers, clocks, digital altimeters, laser pointers and MP3 players and use it instead for something that you may actually stand a chance of needing and, while we’re at it, save a whole chunk of cash in the process.

The only thing that does seem to come in handy – and is used frequently, I must say – is the standard blade. So with this being the case I put it to you: why not take just that? A little penknife for cutting/peeling fruit etc. is ideal and a must have – but bigger certainly is not better. The smaller the penknife is, the less space it’ll take up in your pocket, the less likelihood there is of it painfully digging in your crotch on a long bus journey, and the less it’s going to cost also. And if you’re as cheap as me, you can always wait to buy it at your destination to save even more cash. For instance, markets in lesser developed countries still sell penknives (presumably because they’re handy the world over) and for a half decent one they may only set you back a dollar or 2 – a fraction of the price of their equivalent back home. That alone could make a difference for those travelling on the uber-cheap – every little helps, as they say.

But even if spending a couple of extra bucks on a small knife back home doesn’t break the bank, simply choosing that over the state of the art Leatherman tool will still save you a fistful of cash. The other bonus of a cheap penknife is that if it does fall out your pocket (and I’ve lost my fair share) or it gets confiscated for some reason, then money wise you’ve lost virtually nothing.

I think I’ve said my piece already, but just for the statistics lovers among you I’ve even compiled a ‘past battle honours’ list for my trusty and so-called useful Swiss Army Knife:-

Beer bottles opened: 0

Use a lighter/edge of a wall/spine of a book/almost anything know to mankind – it’s truly amazing how creative you can get when desperate for beer. Nb. When combined with cigarettes, a lighter also doubles as a way of looking really cool. Dual purpose bonus!

Wine bottles uncorked: 0

Either use a pencil or a stick or something similar to push the cork down into the bottle or, if the cork just won’t budge, use the blunt, narrow edge of a solid implement and repeatedly run it up the neck of the bottle and across the ridge at the top (each run a little harder than the last) until it the light chinking sound turns to a crack. You can then carefully pull the top half inch of the glass away with the cork still in it – but don’t do this with your bare hands! Of course, you will now need something to drink the wine out of as, curiously, the neck of the bottle is now rather sharp – but you have Tupperware, right?

Branches cut: 0

I’ve never felt the need to cut them away from their rightful owners, but I’m sure I could find a way of detaching them if my life depended on it.

Beetles burnt (magn. glass): 0

I’m certain there must be alternative ways of doing this, but c’mon, who wants to burn a little beetle? Even if you just need to magnify something, unless it has teeth and/or highly potent day-ruining venom there’s generally the option of actually moving your head closer to it.

Nails filed: 0

Teeth, anyone?

Fish scaled: 0

Little penknife/upturned beer bottle crown tops

Splinters removed: 0

Little penknife

Pretty shapes cut out of paper: 0

Little penknife

Food prepared: 0

Little penknife

Sticks sharpened: 0

Yeah, that trusty little penknife again.

Stubborn items removed from horses hooves: 0 in 33 years and counting.

So there you have it – my reasons for not bothering with an expensive combination tool. It’s a little tongue in cheek, but I hope it goes some way to showing that if armed only with a tiny penknife and a bit of imagination you can normally find a way past many perceived obstacles. And remember, in the unlikely scenario that you can’t find a solution to the problem in hand, just ask to borrow someone else’s Swiss Army Knife – there’ll be plenty knocking around…

As ever, I speak as I find and can only base this on my own experience. You’re story may be different. Whilst on the road, have you ever needed (and I mean needed as nothing else would’ve done) a Swiss Army Knife? Has it got you out of a sticky situation as nothing else could’ve? If so, we’d love to hear your story.

Or, like me, were you one of those people who would always carry it “just in case” but only ever use it to a fraction of its potential? In fact, maybe you still carry one because you strongly believe that one day all those gadgets really will come in handy.

So, do you think the the good old Swiss Army Knife is a backpacker essential or a complete bullsh*t waste of money?