You are in Bangkok wandering along the Khoa San Road
and like many others before and you decide that a trip to the fabulous
Angkor Wat - as featured in Lara Croft Tomb Raider - in Cambodia is a
must.
The pictures in the travel agents windows that appear every
few metres entice you, but not as much as the prices which promise to
whisk you all the way to Siem Reap for only 300 baht (approx £4.40).
If
this all sounds too good to be true, well unfortunately it is. All the
travel agents have deals going with restaurants along the way and the
guest houses, once you finally reach your destination.
In short
these bus tickets are impossibly cheap for such a long journey and so
there are various commissions that they try to extract from you
throughout the journey.
The first part of the trip is easy
enough, the roads are good and everyone is in high spirits. The buses
normally leave around 7.30am from Bangkok and take about four hours to
reach the Thai/Cambodian border at Poipet.
This is where the fun
really starts. Rather than taking you right to the border they stop at
their chosen restaurant anywhere from two to five kilometres away. It's
time for lunch and of course a bit of a sales pitch.
Lunch is
still cheap by our standards, but inflated by theirs, so that's
commission number one gained. While you are eating, the driver and his
colleague will come round with Cambodian Visa application forms,
assuring you that they will take care of everything. Naturally, they
say, getting the visa can be fraught with difficulties and huge queues,
but that they can organise everything for you.
The going rate is
about 1400 baht for this service, which means they gain a hefty 400
baht from you as the visa is only 1000 baht. If you accept their offer
you have now more than doubled the cost of your trip and they have
gained commission number two.
The other reason for this extended
lunch time stop over is a delaying tactic, which will ultimately ensure
commission number three.
Good to their word the visas are
obtained, you make it safely over the border and on to your Cambodian
bus. You settle back to watch the scenery and look forward to arriving
in Siem Reap in about another four hours, leaving plenty of time to
find a nice guest house and a restaurant for dinner, when you arrive.
Unfortunately
the four hour journey stretches to seven hours or even as much as ten.
When you finally arrive it's dark and you're tired and fed up, but
luckily the bus has stopped at a great guest house they know. The owner
comes out all smiles and the weary travellers give in and book rooms
for the night.
Of course he's been expecting you all along and
the inflated price you pay for your mediocre room ensures that your
travel agent in Bangkok has gained commission number three.
So how do you get to Siem Reap without paying through the nose?
The
way to do it is just to buy a ticket for the four hour journey to the
border from Bangkok, this should cost you about 200 baht. When the bus
stops for lunch and the sales pitch, you immediately gather your bags
and flag down a Tuk Tuk (a three wheeled taxi), for the final few
kilometres to the border. This shouldn't cost you more than about 50 to
60 Baht.
Once there, you refuse all offers of help from the visa
touts, go straight through Thai immigration and then into to the
official Cambodian Visa section. Make sure you have brought a passport
sized photo with you otherwise you have to pay extra.
After
filling out the application form you will usually receive your visa in
about two minutes flat and at the normal government rate. Prices vary,
but at the time it was several pounds cheaper to pay in dollars rather
than Thai baht.
Once in Cambodia there are various options for
getting where you want to go without the strings attached. The bus
station is close by and your well deserved lunch will cost you a
fraction of the price.
Happy travelling!
Colin
Schrader recently spent 14 months touring the world, visiting 13
countries in the process. He is a free lance writer and through his
website http://www.itsasmallworld.uk.com
you can catch up on his adventures. Full of hints and tips with advice
on what to do and more importantly what not to do, it is also an
enjoyable read about the daily life, successes and scrapes of a couple
on a long journey. Watch out for his great value travel e-books, packed
with useful information - coming soon.